One of the most popular jewelry for Ukrainian women in the 17th - early 20th centuries was the dukach. As a bright element of artistic plasticity, the product has gone through a long and complicated path of development. The main value of the jewelry was not the precious metal from which it was made, but its aesthetics. It manifested itself in jewelry work, artistic expressiveness, multifaceted composition and perfection of form.
From time immemorial, the tradition of wearing coins as decoration existed among different peoples. The name of the jewelry comes from the ancient coin of Italy - the ducat. Dukat with a weight of 3.46 grams in Ukraine had different names. According to property inventory documents (XVІІ-ХVІІІ centuries), pannochki and ladies from wealthy families put on gilded ducats on threads that looked like necklaces. In this way, women emphasized the pomp and richness of the decoration characteristic of the Baroque era.
It was from this period that the first mentions of dukaches appeared in the literature, which were used not for their intended purpose, but as a breast decoration. At various times, they were an important part of the festive costume of both pans and commoners.
Dukachi consisted of two parts. The first is a pendant medallion with an eyelet or a hole in the middle. The second is a brooch in the form of a bow. Between themselves, the elements were most often fastened with chains.
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As a medallion, not only coins and medals made of gold and silver were used, but also their imitations (brass, copper). The bows, decorated with colored glass and precious stones, were distinguished by an exquisite and expressive interpretation of forms.
Medallions from Western Europe were widely used. The presence of inscriptions, engravings, coats of arms, portraits is a characteristic feature of the products.
However, most dukachs were produced by local craftsmen. Jewelry making workshops were located in many cities of the country, but the largest number was concentrated in Glukhov, Chernihiv, Nizhyn and Baturyn. The artistic and technical component of dukaches had a pronounced national character.
Products from two circles, which were connected by a spring or a twisted cord made of metal, prevailed. The plot scenes on the elements of the medal most often did not have a common theme. The reason for this is the lack of chasing skills on both sides of the specimen. Therefore, the main techniques of the masters were embossing and stamping of the pattern, and in a later period - casting.
At the end of the 18th century, manufacturers primarily focused on the needs of the peasants and the Cossacks. Incredible samples were distributed mainly along the Left Bank, Cherkasy and Kiev regions. But jewelry was also loved by women in the Kuban, as well as from the Kursk and Tula provinces, where they were transported by immigrants.
By the end of the 19th century, dukaches, distinguished by their harmonious aesthetics, became a real hit among the people. Women wore it over an embroidered shirt in the most prominent place in the chest area. The product not only adorned the image of the hostess, but also demonstrated the social status. Simultaneously with the dukach, women of fashion often wore pearl, amber and coral beads. And also - decorations made of Venetian glass or mother-of-pearl beads-balammuts. But the main emphasis was on the dukach. Women were proud of this detail of the traditional costume and passed it down from generation to generation.
On our website, you can purchase ducats and dukachs in the section
"Jewellery made of precious metals, stones and bijouterie".
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